AHAs (fruit acids) are frequently used in cosmetics, but what are their benefits and which skin types can benefit from them?
What Are Fruit Acids Used For and Which Skin Types Can Benefit?
AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are carboxylic acids primarily derived from fruit sugars. They are renowned for their chemical exfoliating properties, unlike mechanical grain scrubs. Note that "chemical" does not necessarily mean "synthetic"! Chemistry is all around us. For instance, water is a chemical molecule: H₂O.
What Are the Main Fruit Acids?
The main AHAs used in cosmetics include:
- Lactic acid
- Malic acid
- Glycolic acid
- Citric acid
- Tartaric acid
The most well-known are glycolic and lactic acids due to their particular ability to penetrate the skin. They are commonly used for their peeling effect, which removes dead skin cells, brightens the complexion, refines skin texture, and reduces fine lines. These acids also promote cell renewal, boost collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity while diminishing hyperpigmentation spots.
Are AHAs synthetic or natural?
AHAs can be either natural or synthetic. Formulas containing fruit acids often use various fruits to maximise their effects on the skin. The fruit acids used in éméo's skincare are natural.
Effectiveness of fruit acids
Studies show that prolonged application of glycolic acid over 3 to 6 months reduces fine lines and the depth of wrinkles. Fruit acids are also effective in acne treatments. However, their effectiveness depends on the concentration of AHAs. Dermatologists can use concentrations up to 70%, but this may cause side effects such as irritation, photosensitivity, and redness. In cosmetics, concentrations are much lower (between 1 and 12%), but the results are still excellent.
The effectiveness of a product containing AHAs also depends on the frequency of use and the duration it stays active on the skin. A mask or a day treatment is ideal.
Which skin types can benefit from AHAs?
AHAs are beneficial for:
- Mature skin
- Dry and devitalized skin
- Problematic skin (acne, oily skin)
- Hyperpigmentation
However, they are not recommended for very reactive and sensitive skin, as these skin types may find AHAs too irritating.
Products containing Fruit Acids
You can find natural fruit acids in our Bee Mine Mask and Alpha-Lift Premium Serum, which contain the following extracts:
- Blueberry Extract 57%
- Sugar Cane Extract 24%
- Orange Extract 8%
- Lemon Extract 8%
- Sugar Maple Extract 3%
These fruit extracts, sources of AHAs, contain:
- Lactic acid 28-32%
- Glycolic acid 12-17%
- Citric acid 2-6%
- Malic acid and tartaric acid ≤ 1%
Fruit Acid Composition: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract.
Precautions to take
Always use sunscreen to protect your skin from free radicals.
References
- Cosmetic and Dermatologic Use of Alpha Hydroxy Acids**: Philipp Babilas, Ulrich Knie, Christoph Abels. Journal compilation © Blackwell Verlag GmbH, Berlin
- **Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin**: Sheau-Chung Tang1,2 and Jen-Hung Yang1,3,*
